In this blog, you will get to know about the best time to plant trees in Texas. . The first step in planning is to select high-quality trees. Choosing natives is especially important in the shade tree category.
It is the ideal time to plant shade and ornamental trees as the weather cools and fall color begins to emerge.
The first step in planning is to select high-quality trees. Choosing natives is especially important in the shade tree category.
Consider the following large-growing oak trees: live oak, Texas red oak, bur oak, Mexican white oak (also known as Monterrey oak), lacey oak, and canby oak.
Staying away from water oak, pin oak, Southern red oak, Northern red oak, black oak, and sawtooth oak will save you time and frustration in the garden. They despise our alkaline soil.
Red oaks and canby oaks can also be deceiving because they can be crossed with acid-loving trees like pin oak and Southern and Northern red oaks. Working with reputable nurseries and contractors is essential. If you are looking for best time to plant trees in texas then you are at the right place.
Natives Other Than Oak
Oaks aren’t the only important native trees to consider. Bigtooth maple, Texas ash, cedar elm, bald cypress, Montezuma cypress, and Mexican sycamore are other natives that I highly recommend (yes, I know the last two are from Mexico, but that’s close enough).
Trident maple is one of the introduced trees that I really like because it has done so well in Dallas for many years. Chinese pistachio and lacebark elm are two introduced trees that I used to recommend but no longer do. There are several reasons for this, which I will discuss in a later column.
Silver maple, silver poplar, Siberian elm, hybrid maples (except Japanese maples), fruitless mulberry, Arizona ash, and royal paulownia are examples of introduced foreigners that I strongly advise against planting here.
Trees for decoration
The smaller trees, known as ornamental trees, are less obvious. Yaupon holly, Mexican plum, Mexican buckeye, redbud, Eve’s necklace, rusty blackhaw viburnum, Carolina buckthorn, and escarpment black cherry are some of the best natives.
There are also palms such as sabal and needle palm. Some of the foreigners are very good, and in some cases even better. Crape myrtle, Japanese maple, Persian ironwood, and Walter’s viburnum are among them. It’s best to avoid Leyland cypress and Lombardy poplar entirely.
Some of you may be wondering why I didn’t mention ginkgo. Yes, I do have Dallas’ largest and fastest-growing ginkgo. It could be considered native because it grows or has been discovered in fossils on all continents and in the majority of countries around the world. It’s a fantastic tree, but it requires good soil and organic management. More on ginkgo will be covered in a later column.
9 Super Easy Steps to Plant a Tree
Here are 9 super easy steps to plant a tree in Texas or anywhere in the world:
1. Select the Correct Tree for the Correct Location.
Plant a tree in an area that will allow it to mature. Consider the distance between it and other trees, structures, and sidewalks. When there are above or below ground utility lines, always consider the mature size of the tree and follow the guidelines above.
Because the soil in Austin is very alkaline, many species cannot thrive. The majority of maples, pines, and dogwoods are bad choices. Choose from our list of Central Texas-recommended species.
2. Plant at the appropriate time in Austin
The best time to plant trees in Texas is in the fall. Austin’s tree planting season is commonly referred to as October through March. Our winters are mild enough that the tree will not freeze as it sends roots out into its new home. The tree is better prepared for the harsh conditions by the time it gets hot and dry again.
3. Purchase a high-quality tree.
Visit a nearby nursery to find trees that are well suited to our climate. Take a look at the roots, branching structure, and trunk:
On the other hand, you can remove the tree from the respective container to watch / inspect the roots. It is common to find a mat of fine roots circling the ball’s edge. A tree that has been in the container for an extended period of time will become root bound, with large circling roots surrounding the ball. Choose a tree with visible healthy roots no larger than 14″ in diameter.
Look for trees with vertically spaced branches along the stem and around the tree. Branches joined at wide angles are stronger than branches joined at tight, narrow forks.
Examine the trunk for wounds. Injuries can result in disease.
4. It’s time to get started!
It’s time to get started with digging the hole as deep as the root ball. This could be deeper than it appears in the container. Locate the root flare to determine the proper depth (the area where the trunk tapers out to meet the lateral roots). To find the root flare, you may need to brush off excess soil from the top of the root ball.
If you dig the hole too deeply, replace some soil and compact it at the bottom to prevent the tree from settling later. When in doubt, plant a little higher than the soil surface rather than deeper. If you have enough room, make the hole three times the width of the container. Break up any compaction around the sides of the hole with the tip of the shovel.
5. Make the root ball
Take the tree out of the pot. You may require the assistance of another person to hold the container while you pull the tree out. You must correct any circling roots on the outside of the ball once it has been removed from the pot. If you only have one tree and plenty of time, you can untangle the roots and distribute them evenly throughout the planting hole. Otherwise, it is recommended that you use a clean handsaw to remove the root ball’s outer edge all the way around. This will allow the roots to grow directly into the native soil.
6. Position the tree
After you’ve extracted the roots, make a small mound in the hole to support the trunk and spread the roots outward along the mound. Center the root ball in the hole if you shaved it.
Take a step back and inspect it from all sides to ensure it is straight. If your tree was dug in a field, the nursery may have marked the stem on the north side. It is best to maintain this orientation. If you don’t have a mark, turn it until it looks right.
7. Fill the gap
Replace a little of the soil you dug out of the hole at a time, alternating with water to help fill in any air pockets. Don’t compact the soil. Allow it to settle in the water. Fill the hole with no compost or fertilizer. Only use what you dug up. It’s best to leave large chunks of soil alone if possible.
The hole should now be filled with both water and soil. If the soil is still dry, water again to thoroughly soak the planting hole.
9. Only use a stake if absolutely necessary.
Stakes can impede the growth of a tree, so avoid them if possible. Stakes should be installed loosely to allow for tree movement if a tree is very top-heavy or has a weak stem, then removed after 1-2 years. Instead, if possible, select a different tree.
In South Texas, the best time to plant trees and shrubs is late fall to early spring. Before the stress of a hot, dry summer, the plants have time to develop roots in the cool soil. The process of selecting and planting a tree or shrub is not difficult, but it does require some thought. If you choose wisely and properly care for the plant, it can provide benefits for a long time. This is the end of the blog, which is the best time to plant trees in Texas.
Q1. When is the best time to plant trees in North Texas?
In North Texas, the best time to plant trees is from late fall to early spring. Summers in this region can be stressful due to the dry, hot weather. It is best to allow new trees to establish roots while the soil remains cool and the temperatures remain moderate.
Q2. What factors should I make before planting a new tree in North Texas?
First, consider the canopy size of the tree, as you don’t want it to be too large. Second, if the tree produces fruits, seedpods, or nuts, it may make a mess or have a lot of leaf fall after a storm. The tree’s susceptibility to diseases and destructive insects is the third factor to consider.